Choice is not an option at the latest addition to restaurant row in Oak Bluffs. The owners of Down Island, an upscale restaurant off Kennebec avenue, took decision off the menu and put diners in the capable hands of chef Scott Cummings.
“We make the choice for you,” said Adam Jaime, one of the owners. “That was a leap we wanted to take.”
Down Island is the latest venture from the partners behind 20 By Nine, a group of four friends, David Gaffey, Steve Ansara, Doug Abdelnour and Mr. Jaime, with collectively more than 50 years of restaurant experience. One recent Monday morning, Mr. Jaime stood in the basement level restaurant which was set up for dinner but empty of patrons.
“It started with a fairly blank slate,” he said of the space. And a conundrum. They wanted to insulate the restaurant, situated underneath the Lampost, from the bustle of Circuit avenue and create a respite for diners, without making it claustrophobic. “How do we brighten up the space by also closing the windows?” he asked.
The answer was a minimalist design, a funky wall color and an open floor plan.
With Down Island, the partners wanted to fill holes in the Island dining scene. Taking advantage of the duality of streets the space bridged, they designed the main area near Kennebec as a high-end eatery, and the patio facing Circuit avenue as a fresh juice and coffee bar.
But whether it’s from the front of the house or back, everything Down Island offers has a handmade touch.
As a frequent diner himself, Mr. Jaime said one of his favorite parts of a meal is sharing dishes. Down Island has five preset courses some of which are communal. The concept also simplifies going out to eat, Mr. Jaime said.
“A lot of people have made one million choices to get here,” he said. “Once you’re here, the only choice you have to make is wine and not even that because we have wine pairings.”
The restaurant offers 21 wines, by the glass and bottle, along with five beers (there are also beer pairings) and bottled cocktails. Fresh cocktails are made daily and then bottled for later pourings at night. There are five options, including a manhattan, a roman highball and a margarita.
The set menu changes weekly, sometimes subtly, sometimes completely, depending on the produce in season and Chef Cummings’s inspiration.
“Our chef is very cerebral in concept,” said Mr. Jaime. “The menu is a tour of what the chef finds fresh.”
Mr. Cummings, who is executive chef of both Down Island and 20 by Nine, said the limited menu at the new restaurant lets him and his team in the kitchen focus meticulously on each element of the dishes.
“Each dish we have come up with has one featured ingredient from the Island,” he said. Though change is integral to keeping the menu fresh, some dishes have already proved their longevity. Down Island’s current second course (roasted carrots with citrus, yogurt, basil and almonds) is well on its way to becoming a signature dish.
“People approach it thinking okay — carrots,” said Mr. Jaime. “And they walk away saying wow, that’s the best carrot dish I’ve had.”
The restaurant will operate seasonally; the closing date is not yet set.
“The locals are the bread and butter,” said Mr. Jaime. “We’ll see how far we make it.”
And Down Island knows something about bread and butter, or certainly bread — they bake their own.
Down Island is open for dinner every night starting at 6 p.m. The last dinner seating is at 9:30 p.m.
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